Tuesday 19 November 2013

November 18, 2013

Life aboard "Haven" has been going great these last days.
Wonderful new places to see, people to meet, and history to learn.
We have been feeling good and the boat is holding up well. 
Days under way feel like a long and lazy Sunday drive, everyday. Yet these waters are still challenging us constantly. Water depths, FOG, currants, bridges, navigation aids, trip planning etc. etc. never a dull moment. Well, ok at times, when you've past your hundredth "McMansion" (as pegged by our friend Anne) or wound around another bend of grassy flats, some days can seem longer than others. 
The docks are so long that you would need to pack a lunch just to get to your boat.

The new fresh water pump was installed and the engine in working order once again. After a night of socialising we got an early start in the morning and was once again heading south. (although we spent way to much time actually going west on the ICW) We were under way with Sea Angel as a buddy boat - they were keeping an eye out for smoke from our boat:)
We ended up in Myrtle Beach one night on dock (Lightkeepers Marina), laundry and a thorough boat clean inside and out. Next was Georgetown anchored out. Made it in time to be able to explore the small town for a short while. Harmonium was also anchored and they were very kind to lend us their dingy so we didn't have to take the time to put ours in. Another evening of sociables aboard Harmonium with Sea Angel, time got away from us on this one as it almost hit 11 pm before we realised. (way past Al's bedtime) Lots of fun. 
The following morning we left thinking that we would put in a shorter day and drop anchor before we carried on to Charleston. We were able to motor sail a lot of the way and made better time than we thought and the anchorage wasn't that appealing so we carried on. Just missing Ben Sawyer 2pm bridge opening and having to wait out the hour and catch the 3pm we still made the harbour and were anchored by 3:50pm. Harmonium was an hour behind us as they needed to stop for fuel, but managed to be anchored before last light. We shared a fabulous meal, with the star being fresh shrimp that Krista and Phil prepared,  stuffed with feta cheese then wrapped in bacon - absolutely fabulous!! Another great night. 

As the weather report continued to promise terrible winds we headed in to the docks, Harborage at Ashley River. Fuelled up, pumped out and then spent some time securing the boat well before going ashore to explore beautiful Charleston.
The best stop for us yet. Incredible beauty everywhere, lots to explore and tons of fun with friends.

Boone Hall Plantation - Avenue of Oaks

Walking the city streets, trolley rides, open air market, museums, happy hours and a plantation visit on the last day. We thoroughly enjoyed our time here. We would recommend Charleston to everyone as a must for a wonderful place to visit.
We managed to fair really well through the winds - up to 35-40 knots as promised lasting overnight and bringing with it some very cool weather! We ended up at dock for 2 nights then back out for our last night on the hook. Al installed a new Alternator.
Next was Beaufort, South Carolina (pronounced buford) opposed to Beaufort, North Carolina (bowford). Isn't the English language great. We anchored, then headed into town were we took a self guided walking tour (saw the house that was used in the filming of The Big Chill) then had a nice lunch on a waterfront patio then back to the boat. This is also where a lot of the movie Forrest Gump was filmed.
We are now in a place called Wilmington Island just a short distance from Savannah, Georgia. Anchored in a great spot up Turner Creek. Everything was here at our finger tips other than laundry.
Our trip here from Beaufort was very stressful. The morning was lovely, sunny and warm but a few hours later the fog set in like a stone. We managed to get off the ICW and dropped anchor to wait it out and assisted in a few other boats making there way into the anchorage also.
After about an hour we managed to get under way again. We hit another fog wall about an hour later but came out within 10 minutes. More shoaling and shallow depths to navigate through "cuts"
definitely (as Krista says) "enough stress to make you feel alive"
We took the city bus into Savannah yesterday and spent the day walking around. Nice place but I ended up disappointed overall. Oh well, now I can say  I've been to Savannah, GA.
100 miles now to get through Georgia then we will be in Florida. The weather is so back and forth it's crazy. Yesterday it must have been close to 80 degrees, now today we went for a walk and had our sweaters and a jacket on. Tonight we also have the propane heater on full!  It will be nice to get some constant warm weather, hopefully soon.
I will try and put pictures on another time as the internet connection is VERY slow.





Friday 8 November 2013

Beaufort-Southport

To try and avoid the prolonged process of putting too many pictures on the blog, I've put a quick link to our facebook page on the top right hand side. Click on this to see more of pictures of our adventures.

Well here we are sitting in Southport, NC.  We had left Carolina Beach early yesterday hoping to put 50 miles behind us. While under way, the engine started sounded different. Upon further investigation Al found the fresh water pump wobbling like crazy. Fearing it was about to pack it in and we were only about 3 miles from here, we came to dock and have ordered a new pump. Should be delivered today and Al will install.
An unexpected stop
The last week have had a good week, other than the pump, the boat is holding up well with no major issues. I've been making some fabulous dinners using my pressure cooker.  No better way now to cook up some beef ribs and I've officially made the best stew I have every cooked or eaten.
Al's very glad that we found a place to stow this gigantic pot!!

Go big or go home!

At anchor in Town Creek (Beaufort), calm before the storm
Leaving River Dunes we crossed the Neuse River and headed into Adams Creek Canal that would take us all the way into Beaufort. Not great for sailing, but a lovely trip non the less. Sunny and warmer than it had been watching tons of Dolphins chasing bait fish that have been running recently.  We anchored for 2 nights at Town Creek in Beaufort. Tight anchorage with some good winds, 20 knots gusting to 30,  but with our new Rocna anchor we stuck like glue. It sets fast and hard, feeling like we "put her in park", money well spent!! Beaufort was lovely. We took a self guided history tour through town including the local grave yard. Also visited the Maritime Museum and learnt all about the infamous Blackbeard.
Lots of neat shopping and restaurants in the area, and across the bay on Carrot Island we managed to get some pics of the resident wild ponies - very cool.  On our way back to the boat we ran into Phil and Krista (Harmonium), and were invited aboard for a sun downer - Krista makes a mean Dark n' Stormy.

Wild horses on Carrot Island
Al discussing pros and cons of being a pirate!
Town Creek Anchorage
The next piece of the inter coastal waterway has kept us on our toes every minute of the way.  With extensive shoaling and vast numbers of buoy makers, to more exposed anchorages and trying to time bridge openings.
In 2 days we witnessed 3 boats go hard aground right in front of us. As well,  at both anchorages, seeing multiple boats dragging anchor. Lots of excitement and we have been so thrilled that we haven't been included in those statistics (yet, anyway)!

We follow markers with the tiny yellow triangle on the top, indicating the ICW.

both of these vessels are sitting on a shoal
On the strip between Mile Hammock Bay anchorage and Carolina Beach we were able to motor sail.  Picked up some great speed as we were travelling against the tide. Oh, that's another thing. You can't try and plan a trip based on your tide. One hour you are getting a great push only to find the next hour you are fighting it then back again. With all the inlets opening into the Atlantic from the ICW the waters swirl around the land very unpredictably.
In Carolina Beach the weather started to cool off again and we had rain and more wind. We spent 2 nights at anchor again enjoying the fantastic beach, boiled peanuts and a fabulous walk to Carolina Beach State Park. We had read that only here, or within 100 miles of this area, is where the plant Venus Flytrap grows wild and we had to get there to see it.  Our search turned up nothing, and we thought we would be leaving disappointed. When we started to head out of the woods we ran into a class of Eco Management students on a field trip and managed to sweet talk the teacher into letting us tag along so he could show us the plants. How awesome! Turns out the park has stopped marking the areas to view the plants as poaching has become a huge problem. 1000's of plants have been dug up to sell on the black market even though if you let them go to seed they are easy to propagate, such a shame.
Carolina Beach

Taking in a class!


Venus Flytrap

Long hike back to the boat stopping for a beer and a small bowl of some "famous" clam chowder - delicious. Took awhile to dingy home, stopping to chat with 3 other boats in the anchorage.

So here we are, still awaiting our new water pump. The temperature has been dropping again but the sun is out. Sea Angel just pulled in to a slip a few boats away and we have made plans to visit with them tonight. Hopefully Al will have all his work finished before then so we can get underway again tomorrow as planned.

See you again once we're in Charleston, South Carolina.








Saturday 2 November 2013

Dismal Swamp

We have just had a beautiful trip down the Dismal Swamp. The oldest canal system in the US, hand dug by slave labour in the late 1700's, connecting Albermarle Sound and Norfolk/Portsmouth. It was like its own world and we found it very magical.


quite the ride up!




Not everyone is able or wants to take this route while heading south. It is not a deep canal, we followed a boat down with a 6 foot draft and witnessed him "bump" ground many times. Actually, 14 in total is what he told us when we stopped for the night at the visitors centre about half way to Elizabeth City. Some find it boring or mundane as the upper part of the canal is extremely straight with tree after tree. Anyway, not for everyone, but we thought it was the best couple of days on the water yet.




We stopped for the night at the visitor centre about 20 miles down. Service to both canal transistors as well as the freeway. Lovely, friendly staff in the visitor centre. Washroom facilities and park like setting.

After all the boats transiting were tied up together, Al and I pulled our bikes off and went for a tour into the woods and down the canal.  Later on we had drinks and visited with many of the other 9 vessels that were rafted with us.



leaving the visitor centre in the morning

lower Dismal Swamp


We are having so much fun meeting fellow boaters. Jim, Barbara and Harris who were out for a weeks vacation from Williamsburg. Al and I were talking earlier about whether "local" used this waterway other than snowbirds. So there was our answer. They were doing the loop in Jim's 39' Bristol, Manitou, down the dismal swamp then back up the Virginia cut on the other side and back home. Very adventurous for late October, they were clearly having a fabulous time.

free town dock in Elizabeth City - So, interesting story...the boat to Haven's starboard side is "Harmonium". Turns out that their home port is Ashbridges Yacht Club out of Toronto. We had actually seen this boat and talked to the owners last year while visiting Paul, Joanne and Chloe on our summer holidays. Small world eh!  Great people and we hope to meet up with them again on our journey.  

We had a blast visiting with lots of folks in Elizabeth City at the free dock. The locals through a little wine and cheese meet and greet at the docks called the Rose Buddies, a tradition that has been going on for over 30 years. We visited with the crew aboard Manitou and Phil and Krista from Harmonium. After the bourbon tasting we all walked over and had a fabulous meal across the street.

Barbara and I with our roses (and free fly swatters!)

dinner with some new friends

Gus, the unofficial dock master. Here he is helping me fill up with water.
The camaraderie in the sailing community has been so incredible. You never feel like you're out here all alone, always meeting new sailors or bumping into those you have met from somewhere along your travels. Sharing stories, cocktails and a laugh. I didn't think Al and I had it in us to be so social. I guess it's easier when there is such a common bond. I had my first "emergency" doggy question and I was glad to be of help.

Impromptu social, it started with Al sitting in the sun on the yellow chair. Lots of fun.

Our time in Elizabeth City was great spent 2 nights. The locals are amazing and really go out of their way for the boating community, they are so happy to have us stop in their community. They recently received a grant to build washroom/shower facility dock side and have already begun construction. Should be up and running for next season. It was a shame to see how much the town is struggling. So many businesses in the downtown area are closed up and real estate sitting empty. Hopefully times will change soon for them.
There is a beautiful museum a short walk away. Highlighting the history of the area, a civil war exhibit as well as a really neat exhibit on the making and history of Gone with the Wind. Lots of fun.
I scrubbed the bottom of our dingy and Al managed to check something else off his list (New nav light)

outside the Museum
Leaving Elizabeth City, Anne took this photo aboard Sea Angel

We travelled 71 SM down Albemarle Sound into the Alligator-Pungo Canal. We hadn't planned on going so far but we were having a great day on the water and the plan A for anchoring wasn't very pretty. We anchored for the night just before sundown then up early heading off towards Oriental, about a 45 mile run.
Swing bridge entering the Alligator River
Alligator-Pungo Canal

At anchor in the Pungo River
Ducking out of some very snotty weather, we are now at dock about 5 miles from Oriental NC. A place called River Dunes, the nicest marina we have stayed in by far! Amazing setting, and facilities with a beautiful club house and fabulous folks looking after it all.  A community living development with spectacular vision.  The restaurant is usually closed during the week but because the docks were so full they threw a impromptu party with live music and a buffet dinner for $15/person. Great night!  There is a courtesy car that we took advantage of the following day, sharing it with  3 other boaters as it booked up quickly. Did a little touring of the VERY small Oriental, some grocery shopping and had our propane tanks topped up. Shrimp boats have their fleet tied up to the docks downtown and we were able to purchase some fresh shrimp for dinner last night. Incredible, taste like we were back home on the west coast eating the prawns we had just pulled from our traps. 
The boat cabin is clean again and the V Berth re organised.


Entrance into River Dunes
River Dunes club house
Boaters meet and greet



View from across the bay while on our bike ride
The weather has switched around this morning and the winds have eased so we are heading out again soon.
Bye for now.